MAJOR MADRID FESTIVALS!

Nochevieja, December 31

New York has Times Square, but Madrid's ball drops from the clock tower at Puerta del Sol, where thousands gather yearly and Spaniards elsewhere watch the raucous on TV. Instead of counting down from 10, the clock chimes 12 to represent good fortune for the 12 upcoming months of the year. Tradition obliges you to eat a grape at every toll - more of a challenge than you might imagine - and uncork your champagne at midnight. After that, it's impossible predict where the night will take you!

Dos de mayo, May 2

On May 2, 1808, the people of Madrid rose up against Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon's brother, to free themselves of French rule. Thus began the 6-year War of Independence and, along with it, a new concept of Spain delineated by the country's first constitution. Madrid celebrates this beloved uprising around the Plaza de 2 de mayo in Malasaña, an important battle site and, since then, a counterculture epicenter.

San Isidro, May 15

San Lorenzo, San Cayetano & La Paloma, August

August heat prompts most madrileños to escape the city, but those who stay commiserate merrily throughout the centre at outdoor fairs, bars and concerts. First come the neighbourhood festivals of San Cayetano in El Rastro neighbourhood and San Lorenzo in Lavapiés, where local residents set up concerts, colourful decorations, games and outdoor food & drink stands. La Paloma, on the other hand, celebrates the Virgen's Assumption during the week of August 15th with traditions similar to San Isidro.

 (Mariona Estruga)